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Face Value
By Kate Gilbert
Cosmetics packaging has been assailed by an irresistible wave of collaborations with artists, illustrators, designers and architects. Kate Gilbert finds this successful synergy generating limited edition collections, but also formulating brand identities and widening the creative’s customer base.
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Then there’s the new series of Lancôme Juicy Tubes by fashion designer Christopher Kane. The cult lip gloss already demands a large following and with his World Tour range, Kane follows last year’s limited edition by popular fashion artist Julie Verhoeven. “I’ve always had a real vision for beauty and working with Lancôme has really reinforced that. I believe that real beauty is all about your own personality; it has to be true and individual,” says Kane. |
Lancôme Juicy Tubes by Christopher Kane
At the opposite end of the spectrum, Stina Persson’s creations for ethical brand Face Boutique have become embedded within the brand identity. Swedish artist Persson’s beautiful watercolour images are different for each product and tie in as a range, making the products instantly identifiable and anchored to the brand. “Our aim was to use facial images to reinforce the name Face Boutique, however we didn't want to use photographic images as these tend to be too stereotypical in their representation of beauty,” explained Sarah Vorbech, founder of Face Boutique; “We felt Persson’s work fitted the whole brand perfectly as they are clean, fresh, quirky and visually arresting. All of the images had to work as part of a set but also stand out individually, incorporating a wide range of looks with which most girls could identify.” |  Stina Persson for Face Boutique |
Stina Persson for Face Boutique
Cosmetics are no longer tucked away in drawers. Instead wealth and style are displayed for all to see in a carefully curated collection of perfumes and cosmetics on bathroom shelves. This shift in standards of what consumers expect and desire from their packaging is forcing the industry to take note. “We think consumers are bored of uninspiring packaging; they care about what their bathroom products look like and we believe we have led the way in stories setting new standards for skincare packaging. If it was simply about creating a vehicle for publicity, it would be much easier to use a photo of a celebrity, however in our opinion, illustrations and design led packaging is more to do with creating individuality and cachet,” argues Vorbech of Face Boutique.
Mari Kubota for Jelly Pong Pong
The launch of Jelly Pong Pong’s Dainty Doll range for pale skin also uses artwork to cement a distinctive identity. Illustrations by relatively unknown Japanese artist Mari Kubota, effectively represent the brand message with the character of a “little vulnerable & slightly vampy,” doll like woman, as described by Cindy Champness, International Communications Director of Jelly Pong Pong. “Some people may always be drawn to a more clinical look; others will be drawn to our quirky ways, as maybe a rebellion and so we try to inject a bit of personality into our brand,” observes Cindy. The success of the range has been overwhelming, selling out in just four days; however, this may be due to the publicity generated by the other collaborator on this project; pale and interesting icon Nicola Roberts of Girls Aloud fame, who initially approached Jelly Pong Pong with the idea for the range.
Natasha Law for Tann Rokka
Japanese artist Mari Kubota’s artwork characterizes the new Jelly Pong Pong range Dainty Doll. As a relative unknown, her unique representative artworks bring a sense of vulnerability and kitsch quirkiness to the range.
Likewise the Kisu range by Tann Rokka adds distinction to its products through the use of designs by artist Natasha Law. Beautifully illustrated and embodying the subtle and uber-cool nature of the Tann Rokka shop in Primrose Hill, the cute and innocent drawings adorn the range of perfume, candles and bath oil. Law herself is in demand among the social elite, so much so that the line has been re-launched due to consumer demand after being discontinued as a limited edition. Natasha Law for Tann Rokka |  |
Yoon Lee for DKNY
Perfume has always held a sense of luxury and value. Perfumery experts continue to battle to sell the consumer a piece of the aspirational dream, as with iconic brands such as Chanel No.5, or, as with more modern brands, being sold as the vehicle to contemporary cool. DKNY recently launched their Delicious Art fragrances; limited edition bottles of the Be Delicious and Red Delicious ranges designed by artist Yoon Lee. Paying homage to New York, Lee’s work revolves around the concept of speed and energy and its relationship to urban settings. “When consumers walk into stores today, they are bombarded with a multitude of messages and images, it is therefore critical and our responsibility as marketers to try and bring creativity and innovation to them. In the case of DKNY, to infuse fun, novelty and the unexpected throughout what we do,” explains Diane Kim, senior vice president of global marketing for Donna Karan Cosmetics.
 Jean Nouvel for YSL |  |
The booming male cosmetics market is not excluded from this trend, with Yves Saint Laurent recently combining forces with architect Jean Nouvel to produce a limited edition version of the L’Homme fragrance. This has created something completely new, being the first ever perfume bottle designed by an architect. “An architect’s design focuses more on structure than style, and it comes through objects that are distilled with rather unusual techniques,” explains Nouvel, “I wanted to give it a clear cut shape, so it would fit easily into a man’s hand while stimulating the many aspects of his imagination,” he adds. While many have observed that the rather phallic design of the bottle, intended to represent ‘virility and fragility’ according to Nouvel, certainly stimulated their imaginations, the first collaboration with an architect in the cosmetic industry is an interesting move, and possibly marks the next stage of development in this sector.
Ultimately, the saturation of the market with these collaborations, particularly in terms of illustration, is a trend that will eventually move on and evolve. However, what must be taken from this is that consumers are now looking for products which express personality and individuality and in doing so, moving away from the minimalist and monochrome. Toiletries are no longer hidden or decanted; instead consumers are choosing to view them as a design statement within their homes. This trend has undoubtedly prompted a long term shift in cosmetic packaging design.
Case Study
Mar Murube for Balmshell
Canadian company Balmshell is adding its own kitsch slant to cosmetics, with float art lip glosses. The aim of founders Fiona and Jenny Lees was to “add a personality to the brand and create an instant emotional connection to the customer making the product no longer just a lip gloss but a reflection of that person.” A regular illustrator for fashion magazines, Mar Murube is no stranger to these projects; “There is always collaboration with me. Usually I work hand in hand with art directors; some give you freedom while others want you to exactly recreate what they had in mind. The twins were very clear about what they wanted but also left me space to do my job. The only limitation was the size. Sometimes, I want to draw so many details, only to find that they won’t be appreciated because the product is too small.” Murube adds; “There is an increasing demand for packaging illustration and customers are very receptive. People like colorful, eye-catching images and it helps to sell the product. Even if every brand suddenly decided to use illustrations, the result would not be tedious as there are so many styles of artists.”
Article written by Kate Gilbert for mix FUTURE INTERIOR magazine issue 13 - Global Color Research - www.globalcolor.co.uk. Reproduced with kind permission.