• Preview of Luxepack Monaco 2007
• Preview of Luxe Pack New York 2008
• Formes de Luxe: Pretty in Pink
• Formes de Luxe: Aesthetics and Differentiation
• Formes de Luxe: Fine materials take center stage
• Formes de Luxe: Black Box

By Joe Agocs

The spread at the Alcan Packaging Beauty booth

The overriding theme at this year’s Luxe Pack New York, was “simplicity with sophistication”. This was reinforced by the packaging on display, which was quite slimmed-down and emphasized simplicity and elegance rather than extravagance.

The event, held at the Altman + Metropolitan Pavilions in New York City, was dominated by boutique packagers and packaging manufacturers specializing in small and custom runs, such as Rexam Beauty and Alcan Beauty Packaging.

Glass was still the dominant choice for luxury, as clear packaging with bright silver and dark chrome closures was very popular. Gold – as a color or as a surface effect – was not as highlighted an accent as was silver. Intriguingly, chromatic color was almost absent, with the exception of some rust orange and rubine red shades. Opaque paper packaging consisted of black shades and earth tones, providing subtle textured effects and highlights, such as shiny bits on textured surfaces.

Sparkle, shimmer and shine at the Valois of America booth

The focus of the show’s conference program was clearly “sustainability” and its influence on luxury packaging, with at least two of the presentations focusing on that exact topic. Most interesting was the panel discussion called “Basta! Does Luxury Have to Mean Excess?” The panel moderator, designer Marc Rosen, introduced the discussion with the statement that the principles of “sustainability” and “ecology” – with their emphasis on reduction – can appear to be antithetical to “luxury” – with its implication of excess. However, as implied by the title “Basta!” (“enough” in Italian), luxury packaging design has transitioned, in an almost quiet revolution, to smaller, more sophisticated designs. Rather than large, flashy bottles with heavy gold and silver elements wrapped in excessively shiny acetate packaging, luxury packaging is becoming more focused on style and sophistication with smart simple design and elegant looks.

Overview of the booths

Panelists discussed the influence of sustainability and its impact on luxury package design at their own companies. The panelist from Estée Lauder explained the company’s packaging design criteria, where quality is the number one focus for packaging – and design, cost and environmental attributes compete for second place depending on the brand and strategy of the particular product line. Sustainability on products might be advertised and promoted depending on the target audience for that brand and its market positioning. As an example, the panelist from Estée Lauder cited several examples of changes they had made for sustainability: switching to packaging containing a higher content of recycled paper, or packaging designed for better materials separation (metal from glass) at higher costs, which are not promoted or mention on the packaging. Meanwhile, other brands such as Aveda, with a higher emphasis on ecology and sustainability, proudly display the post-consumer recycled content contained in their modest package design materials on the front of their packaging.

Material ConneXion, a sponsoring partner of our XYMARA™ Design Award, was also there, with their "Material ConneXion Lounge", showing material and technologies relevant to the issue of sustainability: from recycling to dematerialization and energy efficiency to renewable resources. The lounge contained furniture and furnishings that contribute to a more sustainable environment as well as material samples and information that can be applied to any industry.

However, the concept of sustainability was also challenged as a trend and marketing tool. Luxury packaging is, at times, more than just a package, but rather a statement. Luxury packaging is not treated the same way as typical household packaging that is hidden away or quickly discarded, but is often displayed proudly on a dresser in a bedroom like an accent piece. Moreover, luxury items are typically not purchased frequently, but bought as a gift, or to celebrate a special occasion or a special treat for oneself. Does the notion of sustainability therefore slide and “get a free pass”?

This event highlighted that the needs for development and design innovation for the luxury packaging industry are not disconnected from the real world as they address global concerns in addition to communicating the message of luxury in style and with sophistication.

All pictures courtesy Luxe Pack New York, with thanks.