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Italian 101: Merletti – Fine Lace



Pairing her passion and admiration for fashion design with her expertise in both civil engineering and architecture, Elena Manferdini is striving to bring intricate, detail-oriented design to large-scale dimensions. The exhibition space at SCI-Arc, where she is currently teaching, is the setting for her latest interpretation of one of the most delicate techniques applied in fashion design – lacemaking. Merletti is “aesthetics and technology of fashion applied to architecture,” says Manferdini.

Strung on 26 cables, the suspended canopy is made of 301 single plastic pieces that vary in size and shape. The upper part that is closest to the ceiling is created as a more solid structure, which while gradually sloping down, evolves into a delicately intertwined mesh. Including ideation, planning and several mock-ups, the project took three months to complete. Ideally, the canopy would be used as a shading device in a space where the light changes throughout the day. A beautiful pattern is cast on walls and floor.

The set of dresses (Manferdini’s design) that are also displayed underline the possibilities for utilizing elaborate and complex surfaces that are usually restricted to the intimate size of a human body, in architecture. Manferdini is drawn to the fact that in fashion design knowledge of seams and subtle techniques can turn a flat, delicate piece of fabric into a shape or structure whereas in architecture or automotive design molding or other high impact methods are relied on. In case of the canopy and the dresses she used the same laser-cutting techniques to create two interpretations of the same visual effect.

Manferdini is also the architect behind the US West Coast pavilion design at the 2006 Beijing Biennale exhibition. Featuring similar aesthetics: of a recurring single pattern, Manferdini calls this building “the mother-ship of all ensuing projects.” Currently, she is working on a museum/library and residential building in Marcerata, Italy.

Link:
www.ateliermanferdini.com

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Merletti canopy of 301 single plastic pieces, laser-cutting design by Elena Manferdini Laser-cutting technique in fashion by Elena Manferdini, knotted shirt Merletti canopy of 301 single plastic pieces, laser-cutting design by Elena Manferdini Merletti canopy of 301 single plastic pieces, laser-cutting design by Elena Manferdini US West Coast pavilion for Beijing Biennale, designed by Elena Manferdini US West Coast pavilion for Beijing Biennale, designed by Elena Manferdini
Merletti canopy of 301 single plastic pieces, laser-cutting design by Elena Manferdini
The suspended canopy consists of 301 single plastic pieces that have been laser cut © Elena Manferdini
Laser-cutting technique in fashion by Elena Manferdini, knotted shirt
Fashion is a vital source of inspiration for Elena Manferdini. For parts of the dress she used the same laser-cutting technique © Elena Manferdini
Merletti canopy of 301 single plastic pieces, laser-cutting design by Elena Manferdini
The Merletti project took three months for its completion © Elena Manferdini
Merletti canopy of 301 single plastic pieces, laser-cutting design by Elena Manferdini
The lower part of the canopy is a mesh of delicate, ornamented pieces © Elena Manferdini © Photo Romy Petrick
US West Coast pavilion for Beijing Biennale, designed by Elena Manferdini
Manferdini designed the US West Coast pavilion for the 2006 Beijing Biennale © Elena Manferdini
US West Coast pavilion for Beijing Biennale, designed by Elena Manferdini
Manferdini calls the design the mother ship for all ensuing projects © Elena Manferdini
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